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Can I drill my hard drive?

How to destroy my harddrive?
Keep the fire burning for at least an hour or so, in order to let the magnetized surface of the HDD platters to loose their orientation, or even melt if they are made of aluminium. Always encrypt everything on your hard drives, even though it is an hassle during reboots. Otherwise adding a couple rocks to the bag helps. This is the standard method of "securely deleting" files used by many businesses. We even did it on a few running computers' hard drives to see how long it took for them to crash. Exactly how thorough an erase you need depends on your data and level of paranoia.

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How Do You Properly Destroy A Hard Drive?

And in one HDD the only thing that really matters are the platters inside it. Can you make holes over your HD, drilling it? Make sure to drill from top to bottom. See that one HD have the platters somehow delimited in the top of it, and the connectors are on the other side. Make the holes in the marked positions. Someone said about fingerprints over it: It was still useable. Putting fingers over it: It only stoped working when we used a screwdriver to create scratches over it.

Then continue to smash the platters internal disks until they are extremely damaged. Snipping off the pins will foil your average wannabe-MacGuyver. If the platters remain intact, the [insert-your-security-service-of-choice] will be able to read data off them. So you would need to significantly damage the platters or to wipe them them using a software tool. This seems to be beyond you, given your constraints, but given that you aren't concerned with security services, this shouldn't worry you.

I've never tried it, and won't vouch for any results, but baking the drive might be fun, as would freezing it. If you want to be thorough, alternately bake and freeze it! Make a nice campfire if you are in a rural area or a ghetto-oven from a barrel if you are in an urban area. When the fire is ablaze, put the HDD in the center of the fire. Keep the fire burning for at least an hour or so, in order to let the magnetized surface of the HDD platters to loose their orientation, or even melt if they are made of aluminium.

Platters are typically made using an aluminium or glass and ceramic substrate. In disk manufacturing, a thin coating is deposited on both sides of the substrate, mostly by a vacuum deposition process called magnetron sputtering. You've pretty much ruled out the most common and easiest ways to physically destroy your data, but that being said, you still have two routes that are fairly inexpensive.

Physically Destroy The Drive Platters: Smash hard drive until you are satisfied that the platters have even been warped or somehow deformed. Make this step easier by adding in a small screwdriver set if you don't want to smash the HDD case as well. Another good idea would be to take the platters out, and put them in a campfire for a few hours. After that, they should be pretty much unrecoverable, following further destruction of the remains after letting them cool off, of course.

Pop the drive in an enclosure, and fire up DBAN. Combine with the previous recommendation for even more security! You have to physically destroy the data on the platters really easy, just smash them, warp them, bend them, do whatever - even a single fingerprint on the platter will destroy gigabytes of data.

You can also use a computer tool to overwrite all of your sectors until you are reasonably satisfied that said data cannot be recovered.

If you just want to prevent your neighbor, then ripping off the circuit board would be enough. You could also mutilate the stickers on the drive, just in case your neighbor gets the idea to buy same drive and transplant boards. Another idea which may be good would be to destroy the wires going into the motor.

That, depending on the drive, will require replacement of the motor or the drive case itself if done properly. There is a hard case on 5 sides of the drive and a much softer cover on the last side usually the "top" with the labels and such.

This softer cover should be able to be significantly dented with a few stiff stikes from a hammer. Besides that the heat methods mentioned above should work. For instance, if you don't much care what your oven ought to smell like:. Instructions Heat oven to broil.

Clean the hard drive by removing any circuit boards from the drive and any plastic you can. Cover the cookie sheet with the aluminum foil and place the cleaned hard drive in the middle of the tray.

Place the tray in the oven near the top or in the broiler, if you have one. Open a window and get a fan and take the battery out of your fire alarm. Serve hot with a dollop of Old World Spumoni ice cream. Google for a local shooting range, offer them a target of your Hard Drives. They'll shoot it to shreds if they're any good. If that doesn't work, find a sidewalk and have some fun with smashing it into the ground. Repeat until you're happy with it in pieces.

I'm not positive how effective this is but for speed and ease I like to take a drill and drill a few holes through the circuit board and on through the platters. I suppose then if you poured a little water in the filters would also be much less effective.

Have a neighbor with a bench vise? Squeeze the heck out of it. You'll surely fracture the platters as well as the motor and the PCB. By far the cheapest and easiest method I've found for destroying drives is to triple bag the drive in good garbage bags and swing it at the concrete a few times. If you have a couple drives you can put them in side by side.. Otherwise adding a couple rocks to the bag helps. My preferred method as of late is to take my arc welder to the drive.. Melting a drive that has given you headaches is so much more fun.

I used to work for a Computer Service and we used to destroy platters inside small laptop 2'5 hdds just by hitting them hard over the desk using hand and nothing else. This was done so that the platters would break into pieces you could hear them that they are in very small pieces while still the external side would be fine with no visibility of external damage. Then we usually sent them back to producer on warranty case. Worked all the time. Not sure how big drive would react thou: Aside from what i have below, one thing that i've done by accident a few times is dropped a hard drive while it's turned on.

I've done this multiple ways in the past. The first thing I do is perform Zero Wipes on the hard drive multiple times. This will ensure that even data that was deleted gets written over several times with the 0 Format.

Plug in the power strip and flip the switch. It will fry the capacitors and basically the whole board. You can then take the hammer to it. Just be sure you don't use your own microwave. Line bottom with charcoal, place hard drive inside, line sides and top with charcoal, light charcoal.

Stand back and don't inhale. There is a real problem of used hard drives migrating to data-robbers in lawless places - leading to identity theft. The old traditional way to destroy a drive was to drill holes through it, but I'm guessing you don't have a drill either.

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Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Destroy a hard drive without proper equipment Ask Question. Unfortunately, I have some constraints which make this harder than usual in particular, they rule out the answers to other questions: Konrad Rudolph 3, 6 20 A small hammer could dismantle the whole thing so could do a good job. I'd personally just invest in the darned torx screwdrivers, since you can then get the awesome magnets from the drive.

Ask your next door MacGyver if they have a computer, a magnet, a screwdriver, some corrosive chemicals, and a sledgehammer. You'll promise to give them right back. Pity you do not have a computer else you could have installed Vista on it. That seemed to render most drives unusable. Copy a super important irreplaceable file onto it. That will guarantee that it will self-destruct beyond repair. At least that is my experience.

Running over with a car, even using rocks, is too little to damage the platters. A drill might be a good solution. Taking it apart and shattering the platters of course works, but is a lot more time consuming. Why isn't this drilling answer higher? If you actually want to eliminate the data, you need to destroy the platters. Throwing a drive around won't do squat. Acid, hammers on the platters, drilling the platters, scratching the material off, those erase the data.

This may void your warranty. I had a point chisel with a large 5 pound hammer. The particles holding the data are typically a cobalt alloy or iron oxide with some older drives. Aluminium has a melting point of around C; glass, iron and cobalt all have melting points of around C. So put the hard drive in a C environment for a few hours and you'll have a puddle of demagnetised metal and possibly glass. A blast furnace will probably do the job think Terminator 2.

If you lack an oven of that temperature, an arc welder exceeds those temperatures so you could melt your drive with one of those. Practically speaking, however, an angle grinder will almost certainly be sufficient and much cheaper. There's a lot of misinformation about data sanitization and IT departments are starting to mature in how they deal with retired hard drives.

There are a number of key points to ensure a secure data destruction process: This eliminates shredding the disk, drilling holes in the drive, shooting the drive we've talked to many banks that still take drives out to the shooting range , bending the disk, and taking a hammer to the drive.

The only form of physical destruction that seems to guarantee data destruction is grinding the disk into particles small enough that 0s and 1s can't be read from them. There are actually specifications that indicate how small the particle size needs to be to be considered secure.

With physical destruction, common practice is to scan the hard drive serial number and then toss it into the shredder like in the posted video. There is much room for human error and manipulation. A worker could scan a drive and then pocket it rather than destroy it. Or they may destroy it accidentally without scanning it. Either way you end up with reporting that is prone to error. Like other forms of physical destruction it is not self-verifying. Free or consumer tools do not perform a comprehensive wipe.

Overwriting multiple times would solve this potential problem. This is why many organizations use a DoD Most companies let retired drives sit around for months before they are destroyed or sanitized. The data is vulnerable through this time period while the drive is moved to various secure or insecure locations and handled by a variety of employees and third parties.

Many organizations completely rely on a 3rd party leasing company or recycler to sanitize their data. Retired drives should be wiped using software the same day or week they are decommissioned. If they are then physically destroyed by a leasing company or recycler, this serves as a redundant step in your process which is a good thing since it is a backup measure to ensure the data was destroyed.

This makes me very well informed on the topic of data sanitization but also somewhat partial to software wiping as an optimal tool. Aug 26, , 6: Australian Stories hard drives lifehacker privacy. Most people just use an electromagnet Enjoy having your identity stolen. Aug 26, , Last edited August 26, 7: Aug 27, , Throwing it into the fires of Mt Doom would work well. Just install Vista on it and then no one will be able to find anything.

Then the data between the holes may be recoverable. Also, heat tends to scramble magnetic patterns. Perhaps semtex or thermite. You are starting a new discussion. They look lovely, don't they? If you haven't been keeping abreast of iPhone news, you would be forgiven for thinking these phones boast full-screen, bezel-free displays. In reality, both models come equipped with an obtrusive notch.

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